I thought I would do an educational post about smoothing out the already pretty good trigger on a Smith & Wesson revolver. I haven't done it to this 442 yet so this was a great opportunity. Sorry the photos are out if order. The application I used to do this was squirrelly.
Let me begin by clearly stating that I AM NOT A GUNSMITH, AND IF YOU DECIDE TO DO THIS, YOU ASSUME ALL RISK ASSOCIATED WITH THE PROCEDURE. ALSO, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS IF YOU ARE NOT WELL VERSED WITH THE TIMING OF REVOLVERS AND THE NOMENCLATURE OF THE PARTS OF A REVOLVER.
First ensure the revolver is unloaded and no ammunition is present
Next remove the stocks (they're not grips). Make sure to use gun smithing screwdrivers or you'll mess up your screws.
Now, press the trigger slowly and watch the hammer spring. As it moves, near it's terminal point you will see a small hole in the shaft. Put a pin, or paper clip in this hole. This will relieve the pressure on the hammer and allow you to simply pull out the hammer spring and shaft. Do not remove the pin until later. See photo 1
Now, remove the side plate screws, and using a plastic face hammer, bump off the side plate. Do not pry against it with a screwdriver. You WILL DAMAGE THE PLATE. Just tap the frame and the side plate will come right off. If your revolver is equipped with a hammer block safety it will fall out as well. No worries it is easy to see where / how it goes in. The 442 doesn't have one so I won't get into that here.
See photo 6 for all the parts you should now be looking at: the hammer, rebound slide, trigger, and cylinder lock.
Next, using a small screwdriver relieve the tension on the rebound slide spring and carefully pull it out. See photo 3
Now, slowly press the trigger and as the trigger moves out of the way of the double action sear, remove the hammer from it's post.
With the screws out you can now release the cylinder and pull it completely out of the frame. Don't do this until you remove the hammer since the cylinder must be closed to unlock the action and allow the trigger to be pulled. You can pull the cylinder release to the rear to do this but its just easier to leave the cylinder in.
Now, remove the trigger. You will have to carefully move the hand out of its window to do this. Be careful because the trigger lever may fall out. Be sure to understand how it goes into the trigger, before you pull it out. See photo 2
Next, carefully pull out the cylinder lock. Be careful as it is also under spring tension. See photo 5
You now have a mostly empty frame see photo 4
Ok, now that you have all the parts out, use a honing stone to smooth out the rough spots and high spots on all of the contact points of all the parts. You don't want to remove metal, just smooth it out. You will feel a difference between grinding off metal and smoothing it out in your use of the honing stone. DO NOT HONE THE POINTS WHERE THE SINGLE ACTION SEAR NOTCH IN THE HAMMER CONTACTS THE SAME POINT ON THE TRIGGER. THIS CAN RESULT IN PUSH OFF IN SINGLE ACTION MODE.
Once you have smoothed out all of the parts, replace them into the gun in reverse order from that which you removed them.
Replace the cylinder, put in the hammer spring and remove the pin you used to compress the spring.
Now put the side plate back on and replace the screws.
Finally put the stocks back on.
You should feel a difference in the trigger. It should be smoother, but not lighter since we did not replace any springs.
Have safe fun.